Tips about Japan

About Japan …

  • It is fascinating to watch as Japan merges its thousands of years of tradition with its present and future. So far, it has been able to do so with some mystery intact. The language barrier has helped, although that's slowly dissolving with bilingual signs and Japanese students learning English. For a while at least, the language, like Japan itself, will remain an intriguing challenge for visitors.

    At Tokyo station, waiting for the bullet train (shinkansen), many passengers buy boxed lunches (bento). They are inviting: The map on the cover suggests each of the foods inside has been harvested in a different part of Japan—white radishes from the far west, salmon roe from the far northeast, eel from the south coast.

    These boxes are comparable to Japan itself: They have the same sense of order—each food in its own little compartment, carefully thought out and arranged.

    They are also standardized, like the 'salarymen' in their dark suits—yet, like their splashy ties, they had a container of sauce to spice things up. They are wrapped—everything in Japan gets wrapped. They even have a moist towelette—almost every restaurant gives you one.

    The boxed lunch does not, of course, come with a state-of-the-art smartphone and a miniature camera. It does not open to a karaoke tune. It offers no hint of the passion for ice cream or mayonnaise, for the trendiest fashions, for manga, pachinko and cigarettes. And although its packaging reflects modern design, it says nothing about the bold, exciting architecture that is slowly changing the face of Japan.

  • Japan consists of four main islands (from north to south: Hokkaido, Honshu, Shikoku and Kyushu), plus the Ryukyu Islands and thousands of smaller ones with a combined total of 17,000 mi/27,000 km of coastline.

    Mountains cover two-thirds of the country, including more than 70 volcanoes, many of them quite active. Japan's volcanoes are part of the Pacific's Ring of Fire, an enormous circle of volcanic activity along the edge of the Pacific tectonic plate that runs through the Philippines, New Zealand, California and Alaska.

    Where the land is flat, it is devoted to agriculture, industry and urban development, with little between. The mountains, by contrast, are generally left as forests because of the long-seated distrust of building on slopes in a country plagued by earthquakes.

  • According to oral tradition, the country was founded in 660 BC by Jimmu, a descendant of the Shinto sun goddess. Also according to lore, Jimmu was an ancestor of the emperor. Historians, however, place the date of Japan's founding closer to AD 500, when Yamato priest-chiefs established control over the main island of Honshu. During the following 300 years, the country was greatly influenced by China and neighboring Korea, adopting Chinese forms of Buddhism, government and written language, but then changing them to forms that were uniquely Japanese.

    After the capital was moved from Nara to Kyoto in 794, the imperial court gradually became weaker. Following a long power struggle, the strongest warlord seized power from the Kyoto court and assumed the title of shogun. From this point on, the emperors were marginalized and the country was ruled by a succession of shoguns. Civil war left the country exhausted, and Kublai Khan's Mongols twice tried to take advantage of this weakness. Two invasions were cut short when the fleets were destroyed by typhoons (miraculous occurrences attributed to the kamikaze, or divine protective winds).

    The first Tokugawa shogun completed the unification of the country and established his administrative base in Edo (present-day Tokyo), while the emperor's court remained in Kyoto. The shogun's descendants controlled Japan from 1600 to 1868 (usually known as the Edo Period).

    Europeans first arrived in the 16th century, introducing guns and Christianity to the island. By the 17th century, Japan had had enough of both and closed itself off from the outside world, a period that led to the development of many of its distinctive customs and traditional arts. The country remained isolated until 1853, when U.S. Commodore Matthew Perry arrived with a squadron of warships and forced the reopening of trade.

    After a brief civil war, the forces of the last shogun were defeated by rebellious warlords, who called for the restoration of imperial rule. The shogun resigned a few years later, and Emperor Meiji assumed control of the country. During Meiji's reign, Japan became the leading military power in Asia. After victory over China (which ceded Taiwan) in 1894, Japan defeated Russia in 1905. Japan's imperial ambitions led to the annexation of Korea in 1910, along with the invasions of Manchuria in 1931 and China in 1937.

    The bombing of Pearl Harbor, Hawaii, on 7 December 1941 brought the U.S. into World War II. Japanese and Allied forces battled fiercely for control of island after island across the Pacific. Then on 6 August 1945, the world's first atomic bomb was dropped on Hiroshima. Three days later, a second atomic bomb devastated Nagasaki, and six days later, the Japanese surrendered.

    The country was occupied by the Allies for the next five years, although Okinawa did not revert to Japan until 1972. During the 1950s, Japan accomplished what can only be described as an economic miracle: The country was transformed from an exhausted, occupied nation into an economic powerhouse in just a few decades. A hyper-inflated "bubble" economy built up during the overheated real-estate boom of the 1980s.

    But in 1990, the bubble burst and Japan's economy collapsed, with stock and real-estate prices plunging. Throughout the '90s, Japan suffered from economic stagnation, leading to many bankruptcies and unprecedented unemployment rates. Saddled with massive bad loans and administrative inertia, the economy was slow to recover, with little growth until 2003. Although the government says the recession has bottomed out and consumer spending is rebounding (especially in central Tokyo), Japan remains dependent on its export industries, and future economic prospects are still uncertain.

  • Among Japan's chief attractions are Mount Fuji, gardens, shopping, cherry blossoms, cultural attractions (from palaces and historic sites to sumo wrestling and Kabuki theater), bullet trains, beaches, war (and peace) memorials, traditional crafts, and religious shrines and temples.

    Japan is a wonderful, fascinating and, unless you're very careful, expensive destination. Don't go if you are on a tight budget or are uncomfortable among dense crowds or in confining spaces. Be aware that you'll have to do a lot of walking to explore most attractions. Avoid traveling to Japan the first week of January, last week of April and first week of May, in late July or early August. These are major holiday periods when there are many closings and public transportation is fully booked.

  • Shinto has 88,000 gods, more than any other religion in the world. During the month of November, the gods take a break from their busy schedule and get together for a conference at the Izumo Taisha Shrine in Shimane Prefecture.

    How to distinguish a Shinto shrine from a Buddhist temple? Shrines almost always have gates known as torii (or "bird perch")—two pillars topped by two horizontal beams. In contrast, Buddhist temples often have gateways with tiled roofs that look like miniature versions of the temple itself.

    You'll see "samurai castles" perched on hilltops around the country, but only 12 are original. Others, including the famous Osaka Castle, are modern concrete replicas. Himeji Castle, west of Kobe, is by far the most imposing and is well worth a day trip—as is the black Crow's Castle in Matsumoto, to the north of Nagoya in central Japan.

    The Hello Kitty phenomenon celebrated its 45th anniversary in 2019. The omnipresent cat, which was dreamed up (and is still owned) by Sanrio Corp., even appears on telephones, a brand of water, and underwear.

    Big-screen tough man Tommy Lee Jones is better known in Japan as a sympathetic soul working in a karaoke parlor. Such is the character he plays in a popular commercial for canned coffee. He won the hearts of young and old alike as his character cried while listening to an enka (Japanese folk song).

    Most new buildings in Japan do not touch other buildings. Why? Think earthquake.

    Buildings are numbered according to when they were built, not their location on a street. To find a business or home, you may need to do as the locals do: Take the address to the neighborhood police box (or koban)—they're everywhere. You may find maps posted around, but they're of little help unless you read Japanese.

    Pachinko parlors are everywhere (the game resembles vertical pinball and can pay off like a slot machine). The parlors are incredibly noisy, brightly lit, smoky and invariably full of people, night and day. Although skilled players can make money, for most it's just an enjoyable pastime.

    Japanese comic books, known as manga, are read voraciously by all ages and are available at every newsstand. Some are as thick as telephone books. For adults, some get pretty racy. Manga and anime, animated movies and shows in the same style, are gaining popularity in the West. Examples include Ghost in the Shell and Attack on Titan.

    The so-called "eternal flame" that burns in Hiroshima is not actually intended to be eternal. It will be extinguished when the last nuclear weapon is destroyed.

    Some Japanese half-jokingly refer to the U.S. state of Hawaii as "Hawaii-ken" (Hawaii Prefecture) because of its popularity with Japanese tourists.

    Should you have problems making your English understood by people who claim to speak the language (or difficulty understanding someone speaking it), try writing out your messages. Many Japanese understand written English better than the spoken version.

    The Byodin Temple in Uji, near Kyoto, features on the back of Japan's 10-yen coin.

See & Do …

  • When many people think of Japan they picture the metropolises of Tokyo and Osaka—bulging at the seams with citizens. But once they pass the urban sprawl, visitors find the island nation offers picturesque sites, stunning beaches and a rich heritage.

    Mount Koyasan, in southwestern Honshu, is home to more than 120 temples scattered throughout a deeply religious site. Okinawa feels like a different country with its sandy beaches and scuba diving spots. Throughout the country there are 25 natural and cultural UNESCO World Heritage sites that are worth a visit, and more that are up for consideration.

    Along with the old Japan features a lot of "new." Akihabara in Tokyo has all the latest gadgets that any tech-savvy person could possibly want. Amusement parks are common and not only does Tokyo have Disneyland, it also has DisneySea. In Osaka, visitors can experience Universal Studios.

    An important stop for most visitors are the peace memorials and atomic bomb museums in Hiroshima and Nagasaki. Sad as they are, they remain an important reminder of the horrors that the bombs unleashed and the commitment Japan has made to remain a peaceful society.

  • A plethora of golf courses can be found at some of the finest locations the country has to offer. The best examples are on Kyushu in the southwest and Hokkaido in the north. Summer activities such as surfing, diving and swimming are best enjoyed on any one of the pristine beaches on Kyushu, Shikoku and Okinawa. Head to Kamikochi near Matsumoto on the main island of Honshu and hike your way through some of Japan's finest views.

    Head to Nisseko in Hokkaido—along with thousands of Australians—during the winter months and enjoy some of the best powdered snow anywhere in the world. You could also hit the health clubs and bowling alleys found in almost every Japanese town and city. Grab a fishing rod and follow the locals down to the local fishing hole.

    In spring and fall, the Japanese go en masse to marvel at the color and fanfare of the changing of the seasons. Popular destinations include Kyoto, Nagano and Hokkaido. Hire a bicycle and peddle your way through centuries of tradition and culture. In Kanazawa, put on your walking shoes and stroll through one of Japan's finest gardens, Kenrokuen.

    Don't forget that any time of year is great time to indulge in one of Japan's greatest pastimes, bathing in an outdoor hot spring, but it is especially pleasant as snow falls into the bath around you.

  • Sumo wrestling is Japan's national sport. The national passion, however, is baseball, especially since local players began making it in the U.S. major leagues.

  • Shop for pearls (including black pearls from Okinawa), lacquerware, silks, woodblock prints, pottery, furniture, jewelry, cloisonne, paper lanterns, yukata (the cotton robes worn to the bath), dolls, Imari porcelain, shells, red coral, cameras, china, crystal, art, local handicrafts, calligraphy supplies, karate gear, kitchen knives, packaged seaweed, green tea, kites (especially traditional kites), beautifully printed books, toys, comic books, weavings and silk screens. You can purchase good-luck charms (usually covered in silk brocade) from the gift shops of the many shrines. Don't assume you're going to get bargains on electronic goods, pearls or silks—familiarize yourself with sale prices of these items prior to leaving home.

    Don't be afraid to forgo the usual tourist buys and try shopping for unique Japanese fashion. Stroll down the tree-lined avenues in the very upmarket Omotesando district of Tokyo, and admire the cutting-edge Japanese architecture while shopping for the best in both Japanese and imported fashion and goods.

    Come back down to earth in the Higashiyama area of Kyoto, and bargain shop for vintage kimono and earthenware in the narrow backstreets that wind their way around Kiyomizu Temple. Check out the Gion district, too: Popular at night for geisha-spotting, the little lanes are also full of antiques shops dealing in hanging scrolls, tea ceremony utensils and Buddhist art.

    Overdose on electrical goods and game software in Japan's electronic mecca, Akihabara in Tokyo. Enjoy the carryings-on of local manga fans as they patrol the streets dressed as their favorite character.

    About lacquerware (shikki or urushi): There are many styles from various parts of the country, and modern designs (in/out trays, for example) are at least as plentiful as the more traditional bowls, boxes and trays. Look carefully before you buy—these days, much so-called lacquerware is synthetic varnish on plastic, rather than real lacquer applied over wood.

    Take time to visit one of the department stores. They sell everything from rice paper to pressed flowers to a dozen kinds of stuffing for pillows. The Japanese are ardent consumers, so it's fun to shop with them. The Takashimaya stores in particular have a great selection of all the typical Japanese mementos.

  • As would be expected, Japan's sushi and sashimi are excellent. Other specialties include Kobe beef served as steak (very expensive) or in sukiyaki; cooked salt- and freshwater fish (often served whole); miso soup; and a wide variety of vegetable dishes. Tempura and teriyaki are two popular ways of preparing seafood and vegetables.

    Chilled zaru soba (cold buckwheat noodles) are refreshing in the summer, and hearty nabe hot pots are warming in the winter. If you're feeling a little adventurous, try broiled eel—it's delicious. Tofu is commonly eaten, either chilled with a simple dip, cooked in soups and stews, or basted and grilled (tofu dengaku).

    For those on a budget, noodle shops offer meals that are simple, quick and satisfying. Ranging from basic stand-up counters on station platforms to more sophisticated places serving a range of side dishes, these are Japan's original fast food outlets (feel free to slurp—in Japan it means you are enjoying the dish). Yakitori, a very popular dish, is made from chunks of chicken or squid on skewers, grilled over charcoal and served with a sauce made from soy and sake.

    Japan is not an easy country for strict vegetarians to visit, as most of the soup stocks and dipping sauces are made with fish extracts. Your vegetarian salads may come with pork on top, despite the assurances of the servers, which can be frustrating. However, restaurants that serve shojin-ryori—traditional vegetarian temple food—are often the highlight of vegetarians' visits to the country. Macrobiotic restaurants have their own cult following and can usually cater to vegetarians. Veganism, at present, is not really understood in Japan. If you are desperate for a meal, omnipresent Indian and Chinese restaurants usually do a better job of making purely vegetarian or vegan dishes.

    In Osaka and Hiroshima, try okonomiyaki, a pancake filled with cabbage, meat, seafood and sometimes noodles. Be sure to specify how you want your meat cooked—it's generally presented raw to medium. In Hokkaido, be sure to try the fresh seafood, such as sea urchin. Nagasaki is notable for champon, a Japanese-Chinese noodle dish where a host of ingredients, from seafood to pork bones to bean sprouts, are all boiled together with the noodles.

    On the extreme end of the scale, Nagano is known for eating locusts and bee larvae and Shiga prefecture, next to Kyoto, is famous for funazushi, fish and rice fermented together for one to three years until they become like cheese. Literally every hamlet in Japan has a famous dish or local variety of produce. One of the pleasures of traveling the country is discovering new ones and tasting them.

    Desserts aren't a necessary accompaniment to a Japanese meal and tend to be small, such as a few pieces of sliced fruit. Kaki-gori (shaved ice) is popular in the summer: try it with green tea syrup, condensed milk, balls of mochi rice and sweet red azuki beans. Azuki and mochi make up the base for most Japanese sweets. Mochi is very sticky and some people, particularly the young and elderly, choke on it each year. Azuki is generally disliked by foreign visitors for its beany texture.

    Less-expensive restaurants and those in department stores often have window displays of the foods they serve—the plastic food in the displays is amazingly realistic. Sometimes this display takes the place of a menu: Servers take customers outside to the window to point out the choices.

    If you cannot understand a printed menu, you can (discreetly) look at the dishes on the other tables and (discreetly) point out to the server what looks good to you. Generally, Japanese food is made from fresh ingredients and is not highly seasoned (though soy sauce is used throughout).

    The appearance of a meal is an important aspect of the art of Japanese food preparation, so take a moment to appreciate the visual presentation before you dig in. Try a Japanese breakfast at least once. Even if you don't prefer cooked rice, fish and miso soup for breakfast, it's an adventure and the presentation will brighten your day. Expect to eat a lot of eggs if you order the "American" or "Western" breakfast.

    Western food is widely available in larger cities—especially Italian (spaghetti and pizza are almost as widespread as they are in the West). Outside the major cities, French food tends to be formal and pricey. Korean food is becoming increasingly popular with the Japanese. Lower down the food chain, there are fast-food and burger chains—both homegrown and imported—on virtually every corner.

    Green tea is the preferred beverage with many meals, but you can find alternatives such as soft drinks. Don't expect to find decaffeinated coffee, however. The Japanese drink the real stuff—and really strong. You should sample some sake while in Japan—the famous rice wine is more akin to a liquor than a wine and can be an acquired taste, but it's an essential part of the Japanese experience.

    While not strictly a dining experience, if you have the time to spare, try one of the maid cafes. Waitresses in French maid uniforms will call you master or mistress and use the ketchup bottle to paint lovable characters on your meal. Shows are usually a part of the experience, and it's quite amusing to watch customers sing along with gusto as their favorite waitress belts out the latest J-pop tune. The cafes can be found around Akihabara in Tokyo and Nihonbashi in Osaka.

  • Travel within Japan is generally safe, both in terms of crime and accidents. Japanese people rarely get aggressive, and personal violence is very rare.

    Most places are safe, even at night, although common sense should be used when visiting the entertainment districts of major cities—avoid hostess bars, as they are often unscrupulous, gang-related clip joints. All firearms are banned in Japan (except for very few licensed hunters). Situations involving prostitution and illegal drugs (penalties for possession are severe) are invariably connected with organized crime groups and best left well alone.

    Women in particular should be wary of gropers on trains, although Japanese women are the main target and groping attempts involving foreigners are quite rare. Japan is very much a male-dominated society, and such incidents are still common, with very little support offered for victims of this crime. Avoid using trains in major cities during rush hour to minimize the risk. Many train companies provide female-only carriages. Look for the signs on the platform. They are usually marked in Japanese and English. If you do encounter a groper, try to grab the offending hand and make a lot of noise. Public shame is a powerful weapon in Japan.

    When hiking in the mountains, be on the alert for bears. Some trails are surprisingly dangerous. Exercise caution and ask about the weather forecast before attempting difficult sections. In Kyushu and the Okinawa islands, the venomous habu viper snake is fairly common, but bites are rarely fatal. Make a lot of noise to scare them off, and don't plunge blindly into the bush.

    For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency

  • Medical practices differ somewhat from what you may be used to at home, but sanitary conditions are good. Proof of sufficient funds may be required before you are treated in Japanese hospitals or clinics.

    Water is safe to drink. Travelers with coronary conditions should be aware that Japan is a mountainous country, and in order to see many of Japan's most impressive sights, you must climb stairs or hillsides and do a fair amount of walking, despite excellent public transportation. Be sure to take along a comfortable pair of walking shoes.

    Note: A surprising number of over-the-counter cold medicines (such as Vicks Inhalers and Sudafed) contain small amounts of amphetamines or amphetamine-like drugs, which makes them illegal in Japan. Expect them to be confiscated by customs if your bag is searched on arrival. Alternative medications are available at Japanese pharmacies.

    For more information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.

Tips & More …

  • Do remember that you will have to remove your shoes often—when visiting some restaurants, a home, a traditional inn (ryokan) and many of Japan's attractions. And don't, under any circumstances, walk into a temple wearing shoes.

    Do use hashi (chopsticks) for Japanese food. Use Western utensils—and only Western utensils—for Western food. Stabbing your French fries with chopsticks may be fun, but it'll just make you look silly.

    Don't forget that the moist towelette you get in restaurants should be used to wipe off your hands before you eat.

    Do buy a colorful handkerchief (they're sold everywhere). You use it to wipe your hands after washing in the restroom—towels are often not provided. (An increasing number of establishments have installed electric hand dryers.)

    Do try to learn some basic phrases, including "thank you" (arigato), "good morning" (ohayo gozaimasu), "good day" (konnichi wa), "good evening" (konban wa) and "goodbye" (sayonara). The most powerful of all, "excuse me," (sumimasen), can be used to apologize, excuse oneself, or to get someone's attention. Restaurant guests shout it at the servers when they are ready to order.

    Don't expect to find escalators in every subway or train station, although they are becoming more common. Be sure to stand on the left side of the escalator and walk on the right when in Tokyo. Down south in major cities such as Osaka and Kyoto, this is reversed. People stand on the right and walk on the left.

    Do take along an inflatable pillow to support your back on the bullet train, especially if you're tall. The seats were designed for shorter people. Tall people also need to watch out for the height of doors: Some are very low, especially in older establishments. Train doors are especially unforgiving—if you're not careful, you may end up wishing you'd brought a helmet.

    Do expect to be crowded or jostled unapologetically in public, especially on trains. The Japanese sense of personal space is different than that of Westerners, and crowding and jostling are considered perfectly acceptable behaviors.

    Don't be surprised—or alarmed—if someone stops and asks if you need help. This is a frequent occurrence with visitors.

    Don't expect shrines to be solemn and orderly. Prayer, chatting and photography occur simultaneously. And every shrine seems to have a busy gift shop.

    Don't expect to use a debit card or credit card. Debit is scarcely used and credit cards are only used for big purchases. Outside large hotels and department stores, they aren't likely to be accepted.

  • TPassport/Visa Requirements: Citizens of Canada and the U.S. need passports and proof of onward passage for stays of less than 90 days. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier prior to departure.

    Population: 127,185,332.

    Languages: Japanese. Numerous regional dialects can almost be considered foreign languages; however, the way people speak in Tokyo is understood throughout the country and anywhere Japanese is spoken around the world.

    Predominant Religions: Shinto, Buddhist.

    Time Zone: 9 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+9 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed.

    Voltage Requirements: 100 volts AC, 50 cycles. Outlets require the type of plug used in the U.S. Appliances designed for use in North America usually can be used with no adapter; however, the difference in cycles means that they'll run about 15% slower. Many of the larger hotels have a choice of electrical outlets or can supply adapters.

    Telephone Codes: 81, country code; 03, Tokyo city code; 075, Kyoto city code;

  • The currency in Japan is the yen. It comes in denominations of ¥10,000, ¥5,000 and ¥1,000 notes, as well as ¥500, ¥100, ¥50, ¥10, ¥5 and ¥1 coins. In the year 2000, the government tried to stimulate the economy by introducing the ¥2,000 note; however, the notes are not common. They might be hard to come by, but they are still in circulation and are legal tender, so don't be alarmed if you end up with one.

    Most international airport terminals have a currency exchange, as do the larger banks that are prevalent in major towns and cities. ATMs in Japan are becoming more useful, and many can be used to withdraw funds from overseas accounts. Post office ATMs and ATMs in 7-Eleven stores accept withdrawals from foreign cards.

    Major credit cards are accepted at the majority of big stores and restaurants in large urban areas, but if you plan on spending any time in rural areas, be sure to carry sufficient cash. Traveler's checks are rarely accepted. Keep in mind that Japan is still very much a cash society and some stores, hotels and restaurants—regardless of location—do not take credit cards.

  • There is a standard 10% goods and services tax applied to all transactions. Some high-end restaurants may also add on a service charge of 10%-15%.

    There is no need to tip in Japan. In some cases, a service charge may have already been added, making a tip redundant. If someone has been especially helpful, a small gift, rather than money, would be appreciated. Don't be discouraged if they refuse it, even twice; they're just being courteous. Offer it a third time.

  • The temperature varies widely over the country on any given day—annual average temperatures range from 43 F/6 C to 72 F/22 C, depending on where you are. In general, the best times to visit are in October and April, when the foliage is changing and the temperatures are mild during the day and cool at night. May, June and July are the rainiest months, and June, July and August are hotter and more humid. Okinawa's beaches are nicest in July and August. Sweaters should be taken along for the occasional cool night (or if you're going into mountain regions).

    Winter months can become quite cold—parts of Japan are on the same latitude as Siberia—and the areas that aren't terribly cold most likely will be drizzly and dreary. The island of Hokkaido in far-northern Japan is bitterly cold in the winter.

  • Japan can be scorching hot and uncomfortably humid during the summer, which lasts from mid-June to late August. Loose-fitting clothing made of cotton or linen is recommended for those traveling from Tokyo to Kyushu. Those traveling in Hokkaido or the northern parts of Honshu should be sure to carry a decent fleece or wool sweater since the temperature can drop rather quickly. If frequenting shopping centers, restaurants or bars, be sure to take a light sweater or jacket, as the air-conditioning is usually very cool. Shorts are not common on men in Japan, but that shouldn't stop you from wearing them.

    Bear in mind that the Japanese are a fashionable people, especially in Tokyo. Foreigners stand out enough as it is, but you will stand out even more, and in a negative way, if you're in ill-fitting jeans, old T-shirts and other similarly sloppy styles.

    Those there on business should wear appropriate business attire, such as suits and ties for men and a conservative suit, dress or skirt for women.

    Winter in most parts of Japan is reasonably mild, and a decent coat and a warm scarf and gloves will suffice. Winter in the mountainous regions, along with northern Honshu and Hokkaido, can be cold, and it is best to wear a good-quality down jacket or coat. Spring and fall are both reasonably comfortable, and items such as jeans and a warm jacket will suffice for all but the remotest areas.

About transportation …

For More Information …

  • IJapan National Tourist Organization has tourist information centers (TIC) in the larger cities. It also provides information on accommodations as well as a complimentary hotel-reservation service (Welcome Inn Reservation Center). https://www.jnto.go.jp.

    Tokyo head office: Shin-Tokyo Building, First Floor, 3-3-1, Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo. Phone 03-3201-3331. Daily 9 am-5 pm.

    Narita Airport Terminal 1: Arrival Floor 1, Passenger Terminal 1 Building, New Tokyo International Airport, Chiba. Phone 0476-30-3383. Daily 8 am-10 pm, year-round.

    Narita Airport Terminal 2: Arrival Floor 1, Passenger Terminal 2 Building, New Tokyo International Airport, Chiba. Phone 0476-34-6251. Daily 8 am-10 pm, year-round.

    Kansai Tourist Information Center: 1F Passenger Terminal Building, Kansai International Airport, Phone 0724-56-6025. Daily 7 am-8:30 pm, year-round.

    Kyoto City Tourist Information: JR Kyoto Station, Second Floor, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto-shi, Phone 075-343-0548. Daily 8:30 am-7 pm.

    Canada: Japan National Tourist Organization, 481 University Ave., Suite 306, Toronto, ON M5G 2E9. Phone 416-366-7140. https://www.japan.travel/en/ca.

    U.S.: Japan National Tourist Organization, 11 W. 42nd St., 19th Floor, New York, NY 10036. Phone 212-757-5640. https://www.japan.travel/en/us. There is also an office in Los Angeles.

  • Canada: Embassy of Japan, 255 Sussex Drive, Ottawa, ON K1N 9E6. Phone 613-241-8541. https://www.ca.emb-japan.go.jp. There are also consulates in Calgary, Montreal, Toronto and Vancouver.

    U.S.: Embassy of Japan, 2520 Massachusetts Ave. N.W., Washington, D.C. 20008. Phone 202-238-6700. https://www.us.emb-japan.go.jp. There are also consulates in Hagatna (Guam), Anchorage, Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Denver, Detroit, Honolulu, Houston, Los Angeles, Nashville, New York, Portland, San Francisco and Seattle.

  • Canadian Embassy, 7-3-38 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-8503. Phone 03-5412-6200. https://www.international.gc.ca/country-pays/japan-japon.

    U.S. Embassy, 1-10-5 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-8420. Phone 03-3224-5000. https://jp.usembassy.gov. There are also consulates in Fukuoka, Nagoya, Naha, Osaka and Sapporo.

  • In a small island nation with a large population, getting people to their destinations is a considerable challenge but one the Japanese have met in typical fashion. Most major cities have very efficient public transportation systems, and Tokyo's complex of trains, subways and bus routes is nothing short of phenomenal.

    Japan's bullet train, or shinkansen, runs at a maximum of 199 mph/320 kph initially, and research is being done to push this feat even higher. Its network stretches the entire length of Honshu and Kyushu, running from Aomori in the north to Kagoshima in the south, and is a popular and efficient mode of travel.

    Taxis (somewhat expensive, but safe and honest), trains, trolleys (in Hiroshima) and subways can be used to get around within cities (trolleys and subways are color-coded). Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka sell cost-saving bus and subway passes. To save time and shoe leather, try rental bicycles, which are available at some JR train stations.

  • City buses usually charge a low, flat fare but may be challenging to use if you don't speak the language. However, the stops are almost always displayed in a recognizable English alphabet on a screen above the driver's head.

    Long haul overnight "highway" buses are a comfortable alternative for long-distance travel between major cities, and as the companies running these buses cater to tourists you'll be able to find information in English. Make reservations for these buses at a travel agency or direct through the company. Reputable companies include Willer Express (https://willerexpress.com) and JR Bus (http://www.jrbuskanto.co.jp).

  • You can get around via rented car (with or without driver), but it's not advisable to drive yourself on your first visit: You may not be used to driving on the left, and you'll find that traffic laws differ from those elsewhere. Road tolls are also very high, and in the central city it is unlikely that your hotel will offer parking. You will need an International Driving Permit in order to drive in Japan.

  • Excellent rail service is available to points throughout the country. Most visitors opt for the Japan Rail Pass, which allows unlimited travel on JR lines except for the fastest shinkansen service, Nozomi. It can be purchased in denominations of one, two and three weeks and must be purchased from a travel agent or online outside Japan. Once validated in Japan, it cannot be replaced if lost.

    Also note that the Japan Rail Pass does not allow travel on the many private lines, nor on the municipal subway systems. To see a lot of the country quickly, it is still the best deal, but if you are satisfied to visit just one city or a small region, the JR Pass probably isn't worth it. If you use the one-week pass for a round-trip between Tokyo and Kyoto, it will pay for itself.

    Other than the fast and exciting shinkansen, Japan has a multitude of rail lines, many of which offer express service. Care should be taken when planning a route through the deep countryside, such as in rural Shikoku, Kyushu, or the mountainous areas of Honshu, as trains there tend to stop at every little hamlet and move slowly because of the narrow valleys. Needless to say, these train journeys pass through beautiful landscapes and are often worth the extra time and expense over a highway bus, which will be stuck on an enclosed highway.